“Two roads diverged in a wood and I – I took the one less traveled by.” – Robert Frost
Every year I personally pick a seemingly impossible athletic endeavor to attempt. This year the event was a run from one rim of the Grand Canyon to the other … and then back again ... in one day ... in August! Earlier this week my brother Michael and I attempted this arduous task, and here is the story.
First need to set the stage. As with every challenge, Mike and I thought long and hard about what event we could attempt. After some crazy ideas we agreed on the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim challenge. To add yet another level of difficulty, we scheduled our run for August. Everyone I know that has hiked in the Grand Canyon said the same thing: "you are crazy to attempt this,” which only pushed us harder to make it happen.
When I landed in Phoenix a few days before the event it was 107 degrees. I was concerned that all the advice to NOT do it may have been right. But when we reached the South Rim of the Grand Canyon on Sunday afternoon we spoke to this nice old woman in the gift shop told her what we were attempting. She was the first person who actually did not call us crazy and gave some words of advice and encouragement. This 80 something year old woman was an encouraging voice I used in my head for many hours the next day to keep me going.
“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” – Lao Tzu
So with Ms. Gift Shop’s approval and advice we started out on the Kaibab Trail at 4 am the next morning. We not only beat the mules, but we didn't see anyone until at least 3 hours into our trek. We ran down a steep 4.5 mile trail mostly in dark. We witnessed an inspiring sunrise around 5:40 am when we were almost at the base of the Canyon.
From there we crossed the Colorado River, filled up our water pouches, and headed onto the 8.5-mile rolling trailing along the base of the Canyon. It was about 7 am so temperatures were still pretty decent for us to make good running progress.
By 8 am we were starting the ascent up the northern rim, a 6.5 mile steep, slow climb. The beginning part wasn't too bad and we made good progress, but by the last 1,000 vertical feet I was feeling the 7,000’ plus altitude. Our progress slowed considerably. That last few miles took what seemed like forever. It even had me thinking that the I should stop on the North Rim and take the shuttle bus back the 220 miles.
Once we made it up to the top of the North Rim we had a chance to get some fluids and food. I started to feel better and focused on the task at hand. As we watched in the distance the mules were being prepped for a walk down the trail. It was decision time. We had 3 minutes to get going or be blocked by the mules for the next hour. We made the call to GO.
The run down the 6.5 mile trail was easy and felt great. What had taken us 5 hours to climb took just over an hour to descend. Feeling great as we exited the North Kaibab Trail we were now cruising along the connector trail again. It would be another 8 miles to Phantom Ranch. The start was good and we really didn't feel the 100 degree temperatures all that much. But I ran out of water 1 hour in and immediately started feeling it. Every shaded area felt like a swimming pool, and every time we left the shade it was like being thrown back into the fire. We pushed on for another hour until we finally reached Phantom Ranch. We joked so many times that it must have been a vanishing ranch while we marched slowly towards it. Once we hit it I filled my water pack and guzzled down 2 full liters in a matter of seconds. I felt like I was back in college at a fraternity party.
I would find out very soon that I had made a huge mistake by not filling up my water pack from the river as soon as I ran out. It was only 50 yards away from me for the whole 8 miles, and I had a purification system. I just kept running towards the ranch in anticipation. This would turn into a very big problem later in the day.
Onward we went moving from Phantom Ranch to the base of Bright Angel Trail. Now we had a 8.5 mile trek up the South Rim to the end. The start was fine running along what I guess is a 200 million year old beach along the Colorado river. Within about 1 mile or so the chugging and prior dehydration caught up with me and started the stomach problems that would make the next few hours hell. Not being able to keep down drinks and food on a long run is the worst thing that can happen to you. Even muscle pain can be worked through. But without food and hydration a run in the desert is deadly.
As we trekked up the remaining 6 miles on the trail I started taking all the warnings to heart. The Grand Canyon can kill. Don't do it. August is crazy, etc, etc. It was in my head from mile 38 to 40 that I was not only going to not finish but was going to be one of those helicopter rescues we read about in the papers. I had never needed emergency help in a race before, but this time I thought I did. Slowly and with the able assistance of my brother - who was doing sprints up and down the mountain at this point - I made it to the ranger station at Indian Gardens (4.5 miles from the finish).
“Tourists don’t know where they’ve been, travelers don’t know where they’re going.” –Paul Theroux
The ranger was the most mellow guy I ever met, and at that point my savior. I sat on the deck of his office (one of the best views in the world) and answered his questions as he probed to see how bad I really was. After a little conversation he gets up and brings me a glass of strong electrolyte replacement drink, tells me to take a nap, wait for the temperatures to cool in the evening, and then start back up again.
That was exactly what I needed to hear to get up that hill and finish this challenge. Immediately, every single negative thought and comment that had been ringing through my head just moments before was erased and replaced with encouragement to succeed. This made me think about my personal comments to others and whether I give them the positive reinforcement that they can succeed and make it happen or if my negative comments are ringing in their ears.
After nightfall, for 4.5 miles with my brother in front of me pushing/ pulling and encouraging as he often does for me and others, we moved onward to the finish line. Although it still took 3 more hours - with a number of rest breaks and short naps on the trail for me - we made it the trailhead that was our finish. Best part of all unbenounced to me, my brother had been able to get cell service just below the trailhead and messaged my father to meet us at the finish. So when we rounded the finish, to my surprise once again our dad was there to support us as we finished completely depleted after 21 hours in the hot Grand Canyon.
“The truth is that our finest moments are most likely to occur when we are feeling deeply uncomfortable, unhappy, or unfulfilled. For it is only in such moments, propelled by our discomfort that we are likely to step out of our ruts and start searching for different ways or truer answers.”
I am thankful to all the people that gave me the wise advice not to attempt this challenge. They were right and that what we did was extremely dangerous. Most of the time the consensus point of view is correct and should be heeded. BUT I have made it a point in my life to never follow the road most travelled, and don't follow the consensus. I do try to succeed where I should fail. Part of the reason I attempt the event was due to warnings I had heard. It’s the way I am motivated.
The other thanks goes out to the casual believers. With just a few words they gave us the encouragement and the fortitude to make this happen. As always special thanks to my family especially Dad who always somehow appears at those dark trailheads. He was a bright angel at the end of Bright Angel trail!
Remember to encourage others to get out of their comfort zone and make things happen!
